Tuesday, April 14, 2009

Bandelier National Monument -

The 10,000 foot Jemez peaks surrounding Bandeleir National Monument are actually the rim of an ancient volcano.  Eruptions from this volcano that occurred about a million years ago covered the entire area with a layer of lava and ash,  The ash hardened into what geologists call tuff.  The entire Pajarito Plateau, through which Grijoles Canyon was carved , is composed of this Bandelier Tuff, except the very lowest portion which is composed of much harder basalt.
The Jemez volcano eruption, which was about 100 times as powerful as the Mt. Saint Helen eruption, eventually led to the collapse of the volcano leaving a wide caldera (about 14 miles wide) known as Valle Grande.  A portion of this large caldera runs along Route 4 on its way to Jemez Hot Springs, and like many other New Mexico volcanoes, The Jemez Volcano occurred along faults that form the western side of the Rio Grande Rift.

Frijoles Canyon is named for the beans which grow along Frijoles Creek, which flows south east from the Jemez Mountains to the Rio Grande River.  As the creek worked its way through Frijoles Canyon it eroded the deposits of volcanic rock, mainly tuff, which is full of natural cavities (originally air pockets) in ash deposits from volcanic eruptions thousands of years ago.
Perhaps three or four thousand years ago, the Pajarito Plateau was frequently visited by nomadic Paleo-Indian hunters, and later by Archaic hunter-gathers, who wandered through these canyons looking for game and wild plants.
The rich habitat of this area is home to a  variety of plant communities.  Cottonwood and Box Elders live near the creek at the canyon bottom, while Yucca, Saltbush and Cholla attache themselves to the canyon walls;  Juniper and Pinyon cover the tops of Mesas, and Fir and Ponderosa Pine can be found at the highest elevations.  Many animals are found in these habitats, including Elk, Black Bear, and  Mountain Lions

About 2000 years ago, small family groups of Anasazi moved into the canyon.  They built large pit houses and maintained an agrarian culture growing corn, beans and squash in addition to hunting local game.  Their architecture evolved slowly over the years, but these people continued to live in scattered settlements of one or two probably related families.
Then, about 800 years ago, a sudden influx of people perhaps migrating from dryer areas, occurred.  As a result people began living together in much larger groups creating villages (pueblos) with as many as 40 rooms.  The outcome of this influx of people resulted in a cultural explosion.  The Anasazi living in the canyon began using tools (topols) to scoop out dwellings from the soft volcanic tuff walls of the Pajarito Plateau.  These cave-like structures were then fronted with multi-story masonry buildings supported by wooden beams.  What can be seen today, in the following photographs that I took, are the remnants of these structures.  Most of the wooden beams have disintegrated resulting in the collapse of much of the masonry buildings, but revealing the cave-like rooms in the canyon wall. 





View of part of the canyon with the steep walls pocked with cave openings.  It is also thought that the Anasazi  built these caves partly for protection from marauding neighbors and wild animals such as bear and mountain lion.









Remnants of some of the masonry pit-houses that were built in the canyon below the canyon walls.











A clear view of the many caves that had been scooped out of the canyon wall to form rooms.










This picture shows the caves in the canyon wall as well as some well-preserved masonry buildings (perhaps reconstructed) at the base of the wall.










As Peg and I walked closed to the canyon walls, we approached the remains of a large pit-house.  Much of the upper portions of this structure are no longer here, however it is pretty obvious that this was a large, perhaps ceremonial, building.  I was amazed at how well the masonry walls were constructed.









Here the view of the cave-like rooms is much clearer.  As you will see later, access to these rooms was by wooden ladder.











Plants, given the opportunity and time, can grow just about anywhere.  This is a good example.











As mentioned, access to these caves was most probably by wooden ladder, similar to this one made locally to reproduce the originals.


















Another view of the cliff walls and the extent of volcanic tuff structures scattered all over the area.










A further view of the cliff dwellings and the masonry remnants of the buildings that used to be there.











This shows a closer view of the cliff caves and masonry remnants.  Note the regularly spaced holes above and around some of the cave openings.  This is where wooden beams were placed to support masonry buildings that fronted the caves.








A side view of the canyon wall showing how steep they were.  Again, some of the details earlier described can be seen.













In this view you can clearly see the holes that were carved out for placing wooden beams.  You can also see an excellent example of an ancient drawing/design, still in pretty good shape.







Scattered throughout the carved-out caves
are pteroglyphs of birds and people.  This particularly nice example shows what appears to be a bear.













These last two pictures were taken as we left the area and headed back to the exhibition buildings that contain actual artifacts that were collected when the monument was first discovered by archaeologists.









I was particularly impressed with the way the Monument is available to visitors.  It is truly a "hands-on" exhibit.  By that I mean you can go almost anywhere through the old Pueblo-style pit-houses, and into the cliff caves by climbing ladders and crawling inside.  There are virtually no areas that are really off limits.

In 1916, President Woodrow Wilson signed legislation to create the Bandelier National Monument.  It is named after a well known archaeologist of the time.

Monday, April 13, 2009

The "Ding Darling" National Wildlife Refuge

The J.N. "Ding" Darling National Wildlife Refuge on Sanibel Island, off the south west coast of Florida, is one of my favorite places to just wander around.  I'm very lucky because my wife Peg and I have friends who invite us down to Sanibel Island nearly every year for a week or so.
The Refuge was named after a well known nationally syndicated editorial cartoonist by the name of Jay Norwood Darling who grew up during the Depression and saw the impact that the Dust Bowl had on wildlife and migratory birds.  He was appointed as Chief of the U.S. Bureau of Biological Survey (later known as the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service) by President Roosevelt in 1934.  The Sanibel National Wildlife Refuge was created by President Truman in 1945; and in 1967, the Refuge was renamed the J.N. "Ding" Darling National Wildlife Refuge.  
Along the many trails that take you through saltwater estuaries, mangrove swamps, wooded rises and freshwater streams, you may be lucky enough to see some of the nearly 300 species of birds, more that 50 types of reptiles and amphibians, and at least 30 kinds of mammals.  These don't even include the many insects, trees, flowers and grasses that are present.  At times the numbers of birds that are present is overwhelming. Ibises, wood storks, roseate spoonbills, snowy egrets are among many that you see


In this picture, a small group of wood storks are stirring the muck and sand for whatever quarry might be a tasteful morsel for their palate.










Here, we see a gathering of white pelicans, all of them fishing or swallowing what they have caught.  Beautiful birds that appear clumsy when on land, but are majestic when they glide through the air.









Having finished their snack, the white pelicans line up and follow the appointed leader to the next dining spot.












In this picture, a Great Blue Heron is scrutinizing the nearby waters for any sign of a fish.











A peculiar sight is seeing the Anhinga, or "snakebird" because of its long neck,  standing with its wings spread out.  The anhinga swims under water and spears fish with its sharp bill.  Unlike most other water birds, the anhinga does not secret oils to waterproof its wings; therefore it must take the time to dry out its wings after it has been fishing underwater.






These two egrets are involved in a type of cooperative feeding technique.  While the lower bird sits waiting, the upper bird that is flying low over the water is dragging its feet thru the water
trying to scare the fish over towards his partner, sitting on the shore.







One of my favorite places at the Refuge is in the Mangrove swamps area.  You never know what you might find there.  Hundreds of these little Mangrove Tree crabs can be seen running along the branches of the mangrove trees.










Another Great Blue Heron  is caught looking for something to eat.  














One year we were walking along the main road that takes us through the estuarine water ways, we reached a small wooded area.  Suddenly a family of raccoons came running out towards us.  Initially shocked, we backed off, but it became obvious to us that they were looking for a handout.  In spite of warnings to not feed the wildlife, these raccoons had obviously convinced previous visitors to disobey the rules.  They certainly are cute, but they are wild.





It did not take long for Mamma , or Poppa, to appear and instruct their young'uns to behave.
It was great to discover this family.










Of course, when you visit Florida you expect to see alligators.  There is a place called Alligator Alley, as you drive out of the Refuge,  Here the chances of seeing an alligator is very high.  We have seen as many as ten or twelve as we webt through this area.
In other parts of the Refuge you might also be lucky enough to see a saltwater crocodile.  By the Refuges account, there has been one that has "more-or-less" settled in the Refuge.




Within the estuary fish are plentiful.  It is one of the reason why so many migratory birds spend time here.  It is also an attractant for Osprey, and there are many of them here.











Birds and animals are not the only attraction of the Refuge.  Many different species of plants are also found here, and they have a beauty all their own.


























Near the wooded areas, you often find vines of morning  glories, such as the one pictured here.